Silk at Bhagalpur
Tussar woven on handlooms in a city that has done it for two hundred years
What it is
Bhagalpur is called the silk city for a reason: tussar is reeled, dyed and woven here on handlooms in weavers' own houses and small sheds, and the whole chain from cocoon to finished cloth is within a few kilometres.
Why it matters
Most people who buy Bhagalpuri silk have never seen a loom. Standing in a weaving shed while a sari is being made, and buying it from the person making it, is a different transaction from a shop.
How it works
- Half a day in the weavers' quarter, with somebody who knows which sheds to enter.
- Reeling, dyeing and weaving are separate places. See at least two.
- Buy from the weaver. Agree the price before the cloth comes off the loom.
- Who it is for
- Anybody. Good for families; the looms fascinate children.
- Best season
- Oct - Mar
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Cost
- The guide's fee, plus whatever you buy.
- When
- Year round, weekdays. Looms are quiet on Sundays.
- Booking
- Tirtham arranges the visit.
- Book ahead
- A few days
- Languages
- Hindi, Angika
Where
- Champapuri: Champapuri is the only place where all five kalyanaks of Bhagwan Vasupujya occurred, which makes it one...
- Budhanath Temple: In Shravan the temple draws over a million devotees for Rudrabhishek and Jalabhishek, and the Bhagalpur...
- Ajgaibinath Dham, Sultanganj: Where the kanwar yatra begins, on the north-flowing Ganga
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